02/07/25 Update : We'll be doing rolling restocks as things become available. Pre-cut triggers are still in short supply unfortunately for another week or so we think. We will be listing all of the available LaRue MBT combos on Saturday 3pm MST (2/8/25) . 

 

NO SALES TAX AND FREE SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER $21

 

If you can place the product in your shopping cart, it is in stock and ready to ship. 

We do not accept pre-orders or "pre sales", we only sell what we have in inventory. 

Common Issues & Problems

 


Our Push Button Safetys are designed to fit most ARs without a lot of custom fitting, however due to the small differences between the various manufacturers of receivers and bolt carriers, and other fire control group parts, there may be some minor fitting of the lever if the bolt binds when you manually cycle the action.  Additionally, some combinations of parts/receivers will produce a heavier trigger pull in Super Safe mode and in some instances, not allow the trigger to be pulled at all in Super Safe mode.

Bolt bounce in Super Safety mode is another common occurrence and is frequently misdiagnosed as “light primer strikes” or the assumption that the trigger or hammer didn’t reset, and the hammer just rode the bolt into battery.

 

General tips: use the included detent , the domed side of the stainless detent goes up facing the Push Button Safety . Do not modify the detent, do not use an unmodified cone shaped OEM detent, do not cut the safety selector spring. The Push Button Safety should require some effort to switch from fire/SS/safe. It should not feel mushy or be able to switch positions on its own while shooting.   

 

A.     Heavy trigger pull or no trigger movement in Super Safe mode 

Due to differences in trigger dimensions /location of the safety selector hole in relation to the trigger, you may encounter a heavier than desired trigger pull or the trigger wont release at all in SS mode.

 

We have found that making a divot cut in the top left side of the trigger allows the trigger to pivot up more and allows a clean trigger break.

 

The “GMR divot cut” is at least 1/32” deep and needs to stay away from the radius cut on the corner of the trigger.

 

B.  “Light primer strikes” /”dead trigger over live round”/”trigger didn’t reset after it fired” 

 

These are all typical indications of bolt bounce; the bolt group recoils slightly when it closes and doesn’t lock the bolt into the barrel extension on the first try. Like slamming a door that bounces open instead of latching and staying closed.

 

 The hammer is released as the bolt is closing and strikes the bolt carrier when it is not fully in battery. The free-floating firing pin then moves under its own inertia and dimples the primer as the bolt goes into battery.  

 

The solution for most end users is to increase the buffer weight to an H3 or an A2 rifle buffer (both are approx. 5.3oz).

 

If you’re using currently using an H3 and experiencing bolt bounce/dead trigger over a live round, you will need to upgrade to a heavier buffer – an A5 buffer tube (there are several options available from $38 and up) and using 4” A5 buffers or cheap 4” PCC buffers.

 

The Odinworks.com  9mm adjustable buffer (5.4oz-7.4oz)is the standard 3.25” carbine buffer length and works with a standard M4 buffer tube.

 

Heavybuffers.com makes purpose built carbine length buffers in heavier weights.

 

An adjustable gas system may also help, however we haven’t tried it ourselves yet.

 

C.     Bolt binding

We’ve addressed the bolt binding in the AR15/AR9/V308 info pages but we’ll address it here also.

 

You will need to check and make sure that your lever is able to move freely and is not obstructed by the shelf in the lower receiver that sits directly behind the safety selector hole.  You will need to use a straight 1/8” gauge such as a drill bit or an allen wrench.

 

Lay the 1/8” gauge across the top of the lower receiver and the lever should be able to freely rest on top of the 1/8” gauge. Verify that it rests freely along both sides of the receiver and not just in the center. Due to the radius shape of the shelf in some receivers, the lever has clearance when centered, but if the weapon is laid on its side such a shooting bench and then picked up and fired again, the lever may have shifted to the side and will now be obstructed by the shelf which may bind the bolt, or in some cases forces the Safety into another position as the lever is forced towards the center.

The lever needs to fit in between the ramped portion of the BCG and the inside of the upper receiver. If your BCG is binding at the rearmost part of the bolts cycle, this is the cause. The lever is slightly thicker/the BCGs ramp is lightly flatter/ etc. The lever needs to move slightly further back to allow the BCG to cycle without getting wedged in place.

Our standard suggestion is to cut the upper receiver to allow for more rearward movement by the lever. This is a non-structural part of the upper and comes cut halfway through the thickness of the upper from the factory.

If your bolt is still binding after the upper has been cut, you will need to lightly sand /grind/file the top of the lever. It shouldn’t need more than the thickness of a human hair or 2 removed from the entire top of the lever.

 

We suggest using a piece of sandpaper (80-120) grit and while holding the lever upside down, rub it back and forth a few times. Depending on the grit and amount of pressure used you may need to repeat the process. If you opt to not cut the upper, you’ll need to remove more material from the lever.  

 

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