AR22 info and instructions
AR22 kit installation:
Weight carrier:
If your barrel is longer than 8”, you’ll more than likely need all the included tungsten rods. If you’re using a shorter than 8” barrel or low powered ammo such as standards or subs, the amount of weight may vary, or possibly not need a weight at all with super short barrels.
We advise that the rods be glued in to prevent them moving under recoil and damaging the weight carrier. Place super glue or epoxy in the holes and then press the weights in. You can either wipe any excess off that comes out the top or wait until it’s dry and sand or scrape the excess off.
The weight carrier installs from right to left and you may need to depress the firing pin to get the weight past it and firmly attached in the retainer notch at the rear of the weight carrier. Hand cycle the bolt on the bolt carriers metal frame and make sure it moves easily and smoothly.
AR22 Trip:
With the upper receiver upside down, partially remove the AR22 bolt carrier group from the receiver until the lip on the rear of the bolt body is exposed. Place the trip on top of the bolt group with the front part of the trip over the rear of the bolt body. Push the bolt group with the trip back into the upper receiver.
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Plastic levers:
The plastic levers are made to be a tighter fit than most steel levers and have less play. Due to the short amount of travel the AR22 bolts have versus a centerfire AR15 BCG, the AR22s are more sensitive to the amount of play between the cam and lever. If your steel lever has too much play, it may not fully rotate the cam out of “active safe” and back into “FIRE” when the bolt is closed. We advise using the included plastic levers with dedicated AR22s.
When you close the receivers, make sure that the lever is inside the pocket of the trip and not in front or behind it. Closing the receivers with a plastic lever outside the pocket will damage the plastic lever, so use caution when closing the receiver on your AR22.
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